Adalaj vav

ADALAJ VAV
""A monument showing difference between construction and creation.""

My visit
To the Vav in Adalaj was during my case studies in Ahmedabad.
I and my friend Abi took a local cab till the village around 19 km travel and then a walk to the Vav. The village street spread on the path adds a flavor to the entire set up. The chaos between the shops and houses form a composite Indian village.
The first glimpse to this legendary structure was mystifying.

The entry
To the Vav slowly opened us the architecture sensation, made of carved red sand stone.





Vav or the step wells are one among those ancient concepts which proves the science and engineering skills of those times. Step well concept developed towards the western side of India, one of the reasons for this, I feel is climate. The hot and dry climate might have lead for such a concept to be developed, around the wells.

The usual centre shaft of a well was surrounded by inclined subterranean passageways, chambers and steps, which provided access to the well. The galleries and chambers surrounding these wells were carved generously, which became cool retreats during summers.

Both the above picture
shows "THE ENTRANCE"

Walls of step wells were lined with blocks of stone, without mortar, and created stairs leading to the water.



This picture on right was taken in 18th century when this vav functioned, can see the village woman carrying water in matakas.

As I walked down

The air inside was much cooler than the outside, I wonder what great retreat it gave to the long way passengers (ages before), who rested in the galleries taking break from the travel. It was fun to shuffle between the galleries, with parrots and pigeon playing in-between the carving, and the jharokhas, tried to click this, not a great capture though.

A view of the galleries

With clicking of few snaps I and Abhi went down, but were not really happy it wasn’t maintained, to be frank there was nothing called “maintaince”, the water down the last level was green filled with flies. Below are few snap shots showing the heights of negligence our government shows to restore such beautiful structure.

The lower most level where water is collected

The most interesting story

Later I got to know the story or call it a history behind the beautiful structure of its

kind.The legend behind the origin of this step-well is as interesting as its architecture and is shrouded in beauty, romance and tragedy. In AD 1499, the area around Adlaj was known as Dandai Desh and was ruled by Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty. Around this time, Mohammed Begda, a Muslim ruler of a neighboring state attacked Dandai Desh and killed Rana Veer Singh. The beauty of the slain king's widow, Rani Roopba, enamored Mohammed Begda who sent her a proposal of marriage. The heartbroken but determined queen agreed to the proposal on the condition that he completes a five-storied step-well (Vav) for her. The Muslim ruler, enticed by the charm of the queen, readily agreed.

The construction of this well had begun years ago under Rana Veer Singh but had to be stopped later. Begda resumed this project with great enthusiasm and got the well completed in
record time. Hence we saw an influence of Islamic Architecture on the carvings.

The picture below has carvings of animals and floral patterns,
A combination of Hindu and Islamic Architecture.

. When this five-storied edifice was completed but for the dome, Begda renewed his proposal. The next day, Roopba took a round of the well and saying a final prayer, flung herself into the water and drowned.

above pictures shows the 5 storey around the well and the top most storey at ground level.

As the saying goes:

"Freedom has a price, and it is high. Sometimes a man must give all he can, sometimes a man must die."

Author: Doug Stewart

Mohammed Begda immediately stopped further construction but did not get the monument demolished probably because Roopba had employed Muslim masons who had decorated it with Islamic motifs. The incidents, which led to the erection of this unique well, are detailed on the walls and pillars of the Vav in Sanskrit and Pali.

Sadly I cud not figure out, these inscriptions there. Lack of observation skill I guess, one thing I learnt is better to get updated with all the details possible before visiting any structure of its kind. Specially the history, which actually gives one the real life inside a monument like this.